Winter traditions and the role of aquavit in Nordic culture
As we are now in the depths of Canadian winter, I thought a column about various ‘winter shots’ would be in order to warm us up to brave our outdoor wintry pursuits of skiing, snowshoeing, or just as a bracing treat after shoveling the driveway! Many countries around the world produce acquavit.
Brennivín is Iceland’s signature distilled beverage. When we visited Iceland sailing to all the major cities around the coast, I tried Brennivin for the first time. While I knew it was going to be strong, I had it in a shot glass and I must say I liked it. It is distilled from fermented grain mash and then combined with Iceland’s very soft, high-pH water, and flavored only with caraway. A clear, savory, herbal spirit, the taste is often described as having notes of fresh rye bread. It is considered to be a type of aquavit bottled at 37.5%abv (80 proof). Icelanders typically drink it chilled, as a shot, with a beer, or as a base for cocktails.
Iceland was under the Danish Crown since 1397 and they were forbidden to distill their own spirits. In 1918, Iceland regained its independence from Denmark and in 1935, prohibition was partially repealed. Once again spirits would be allowed, but the production, distribution, and sale would be controlled by the now independent Icelandic government. A surprising fact I learned on a distillery tour there is that beer would remain illegal until March 1989! It became available in North America in 2014.While not available just now in Ontario or Quebec, not to worry if you are a DIY type of person. Take 700 or 750ml Vodka and pour it into a large glass preserving jar, adding about 1 Tablespoon of caraway seeds. Close tightly and let it sit at room temperature for 3 days. Strain off caraway seeds and re-pour back into the Vodka bottle labeling it Brennivin (or Black Death, as Icelanders commonly refer to it). Ready to drink as no ageing is necessary!
The steeping of herbs in alcohol to create aquavit or schnapps is a long-held folk tradition in Nordic countries. Aquavit’s brisk, cut-to-the-chase character is the perfect pairing for such hearty Northern European fare as gravlax, kippers, or lutefisk, a Norwegian cod preparation. I love it with my smoked Scottish Haddock (kippers). In Germany, schnapps and alpenbitter are forms of aquavit and all involve the addition of herbs resulting in a complex bitter that marries several botanicals and herbs to produce a great digestif. Forty Creek here in Ontario produces a good Alpenbitter (750ml/$27.95) that has aromas of honey, vanilla, orange peel and apricot fused with toasted oak, black walnut, and spice; and the taste is robust, complex, rich, with bold flavours of vanilla, honey, a hint of rye spice, and cocoa with a toasted earthiness. Enjoy it neat or over ice, although it’s versatile enough for cocktails or mixed drinks.
Closer to home and to support our local producers, I would highly recommend using Top Shelf Vodka made in Perth. Widely available at LCBO (750ml/$34.15) coming in at 40%abv. This vodka is made from locally-sourced corn base which creates a crowd-pleasing sweetness on the palate. It is light and fresh with a dry finish and rounded smoothness on the palate that makes it versatile for making aquavit or cocktails.
Brian Preston – The Travelling Sommelier
brianpreston@hotmail.com
613.272.3129
The Travelling Sommelier column is a regular feature in our print/digital edition.
